Of Canoes and Crocodiles is a story of adventure in the remote and threatened landscapes of Papua New Guinea. In 2018, Tony Robinson-Smith and his wife Nadya Ladouceur bought dugout canoes and paddled down the Sepik, the country’s longest river. Traveling with local guides and staying in their villages, Tony and Nadya ate smoked piranha and sago pancakes, heard tales of river gods and sorcerers, marvelled at rainbow bee-eaters and cat-size flying foxes, sank in a tropical storm, got lost in mosquito-infested swamplands, and hid from pirates in mangroves near the sea. As the narrative follows the bends of the river, Robinson-Smith incorporates into its flow descriptions of crocodile initiation rites, village “big men,” the barter system, raskolism, and sing-sings. He reflects on clan loyalty, colonization, Christian missionaries, bride price, the environmental impacts of foreign logging and mining, and the joys and fears of following the current down a long, snaky waterway in a volatile Australasian country.
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- Pages
- 240
- Published in
- Edmonton, CA
- Series
- Wayfarer
Table of Contents
- Front cover 1
- Title page 4
- Copyright page 5
- Dedication 6
- Epigraphs 8
- Contents 10
- Map: Sepik River, Papua New Guinea 11
- 1 Into the Jungle 14
- 2 A Wild Place 30
- 3 Upper Sepik 40
- 4 Village Big Men 56
- 5 “Canada Tent nogut!" 74
- 6 Yanak the Socerer 90
- 7 Retreat from the River 106
- 8 Crocodile Men 126
- 9 Sunk 148
- 10 Naudumba 166
- 11 To the Sea 184
- 12 Views From Above 208
- Acknowledgements 232
- Glossary 234
- Further Reading 236
- About the Author 240
